Thursday, May 24, 2007

Diamonds - Overview

Diamonds dazzle and delight - the eternal sparkling symbol of love and eternity!

Whether you're buying a diamond as a gift or treating yourself, choosing the right diamond is as easy as learning the Four C's -Carat Weight, Color, Clarity and Cut.

Become an expert using the same criteria as leading gemological labs. Start now!
Overview

In selecting a diamond, the rarity, value and beauty is determined by the four factors mentioned above, called the 4C's: Carat Weight , Color , Clarity , and Cut (proportions & finish). Today, many consumers are aware of the 4C's, however, understanding how they determine value is important to discover what appeals to you in selecting a diamond, and getting the most for your money.


Carat Weight
Carat weight refers to the size of the diamond. Based on a standard unit of measure, one carat is divided into 100 points. The term originated from carob seeds that were used to balance scales in ancient times. Learn more

Color
The most desirable diamonds are colorless because the absence of color enhances the diamond's ability to reflect a rainbow of color. Diamonds are graded on a scale of D (almost clear white) to N-Z (not sold at Diamonds.com). Learn more

Clarity
Diamonds can contain slight imperfections. Often invisible to the naked eye, these natural birthmarks fall into two categories-inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). Fewer inclusions increase the value of the stone. Learn more

Cut
Cut gives the diamond its brilliance. Of the four C's, it's the only one dependent on a human touch. Using precise mathematical formulas, the cutter transforms a diamond in the rough into a sparkling jewel that reflects and refracts light. Learn more

Finding the right diamond for you
To understand how the 4C's work together to determine a diamond's rarity and value, consider this diagram, like a classic balance. For a given PRICE (the fulcrum), you balance the (Carat Weight) on the left side and (Color, Clarity, and Cutting) on the right side. To select a larger size for a given price, to stay in balance, you would choose a less rare quality diamond. To select a rarer quality diamond, to stay in balance, you would choose a smaller size.


The combination of the 4C's is strictly personal preference. By understanding this information, you can make the best choice. Realize that Carat Weight affects the value by about 10-20% per step up or down in size, Color/Clarity by about 10-15% per/grade, and Cut Quality can affect value by a considerable amount (25-50%), as it is almost completely controlled by the cutter.

Diamonds.com's extensive online diamond education will teach you everything you need to know to choose the perfect diamond with confidence and success.

Diamond Carat Weight


Rarity
Of the 4 C's, Carat Weight is probably one of the most important considerations with respect to rarity, value, and consumer preference. In fact, Carat Weight, or how much the diamond weighs is the most significant value factor in a diamond. Because diamonds by nature are rare, a 2 carat diamond is actually about 3 times more valuable than a comparable quality 1 carat size. Statistically a 1 carat is one in a million diamonds mined, and a 2 carat is one in five million diamonds mined. Therefore, all things considered a 2 carat diamond is really "value priced" based on the rarity factor.

Definitions/Concepts
To assist in you in selecting the right size diamond here is a review of some key Carat Weight concepts. The term "Carat" is derived from the "Carob Seed", which is today used as a food flavoring. In ancient times this fairly consistent seed was used in "pan-balance" scales to determine the weight of precious items traded like gold, silver, and yes gemstones and diamonds! In the early 1900's the "Carat" was standardized to equals 1/5 of a gram or .20 gm. Therefore, 5 carats = 1.00 gram. The Carat is further broken down into "points". There are 100 points to a Carat, just like 100 pennies to a dollar. Common diamond Carat Weights sold typically range from 1/5 Carat (20 points) to 1 Carat (100 points) and larger! Diamonds smaller than 1/5 Carat are referred to as "melee" diamonds, and are quite often used to accent a center or feature diamond.

Pricing
Larger diamonds are much more rare, thus commanding a higher price/per/carat. Carat weight affects the value of a diamond by about 10-20% for each step in size difference. Also, "magic sizes" refer to major carat weight categories, for example exactly 1.00 carat, or larger, and can prompt "price premiums". To calculate the price of a diamond you multiply the carat weight by the price/per/carat. For example: if a 1.25 carat diamond was priced at $10,000 per/carat the diamond would be sold for $12,500.


Choosing The Right Size
In the selection process, most women today aspire to owning an engagement diamond of at least 1 carat. Statistically, the average size sold for engagement is between a half and three-quarter carat. The carat weight however, doesn't necessarily reflect how the diamond appears. The most popular diamond shapes sold are the Round and Princess Cuts. The outer diameter of a 1 carat round diamond is about 6.5mm, however if the diamond is cut too "deep" it will be smaller in diameter, or if it's too "shallow" it will appear larger in diameter. When you review the section on "Cut Quality", bigger doesn't necessarily mean better. The final decision is always up to YOU, the consumer.

Back to selecting the right size.view and observe the examples of different carat weights for round diamonds and their corresponding sizes to determine what is right for you. Also, please note that the appearance of these sizes may be affected by your computer monitor screen. For an easy comparison of price and size, see the table below. Prices are approximate and based upon D Color, internally flawless clarity, and excellent cut quality.
Carat Weight - Diamond Price
.50 ct $4,000
.75 ct $7,000
1.00 ct $17,000
1.50 ct $30,000
2.00 ct $55,000
3.00 ct $125,000
5.00 ct $300,000

Diamond Body Color


It is interesting to note that diamonds actually come in the widest variety of colors of any gem material. Most gem quality diamonds however are desired for their lack of color. In fact, the closer a diamond is to colorless, the more rare and valuable it is. On the other hand, diamonds are also sought after by collectors in their extremely rare "fancy colors" including (from highest value), Reds (Pinks), Blues, Greens, and Fancy Intense Yellow.

The GIA grades diamonds on a scale from D (Colorless) to Z (Light Yellow). When a diamond is graded darker than Z on the GIA scale it is referred to as "fancy yellow", and the more color and intensity it shows, the more valuable it will be. Most diamonds have a slight hint of yellow, though brown and gray are also common modifying colors. Of all the diamond colors available, most consumers select GIA grades from D to J color. D-E-F are the "colorless" grades, and G-H-I-J are "near colorless". The difference in each letter grade is very subtle, and color comparison diamonds of known grades are used under controlled lighting conditions. When viewed in the face-up position, the average person begins to see color in a diamond at about the I-J range. Therefore color is a rarity factor that does affect appearance, rarity and price, about 10-15% per color grade

Fluorescence
This is a unique attribute of some diamonds that causes them to "glow" a typically bluish color when exposed to natural or man-made ultraviolet light (like a Black Light). About 50% of all diamonds fluoresce and of those about 10% fluoresce strongly. Most of the time, fluorescence is not a factor unless the intensity is Strong or Very Strong. In the very rare colors D, E, and F, Strong fluorescence is considered less desirable. However, in the less rare colors of such as J - K and below, Strong fluorescence may be desirable.

Blue-White
This is a false and misleading term. According to the FTC a diamond must be blue/bluish or colorless. Fluorescence is also a factor. AGS prohibits use of the term.

Diamond Clarity

Concepts
Diamonds form naturally deep within the Earth under tremendous pressure and extreme heat, and as a result, most contain internal or external features even in their polished state called clarity characteristics. Just as no two people are alike, we all have individual traits, no two diamonds are alike, they have "fingerprints" or "birthmarks". A diamond's clarity is effectively determined by viewing the gem using 10 power magnification under controlled lighting. GIA uses 11 clarity grades ranging from "Flawless, VVS (Very, Very, Small), VS (Very Small), SI (Slightly Included), to I (Included). Generally clarity characteristics cannot be seen to the unaided eye until reaching the lower SI to I grades.

The vast majority of diamonds offered on Diamonds.com are SI grades or rarer in quality. Therefore, in the grades sold on this site, clarity is a rarity factor that affects the price, but seldom affects the visual beauty of the diamond. One should note that in selecting an Emerald Cut diamond vs. a Round Brilliant Cut, the facet arrangement of the Emerald Cut makes the clarity features much more noticeable to the eye; therefore, most consumers select a higher rarer clarity grade when choosing such a shape.

The diagram showing the top view of a round diamond visually depicts the range in clarity. The internal characteristics or inclusions shown in red are not the actual size, but are used to demonstrate how they would appear under magnification. Remember, the clarity features are not readily visible to the unaided eye until the SI2-I3 clarity ranges.

Carbon Spot
This is a false and misleading term. Correctly, a dark-appearing inclusion, is generally not uncrystallized carbon. Diamond is 99.95% pure carbon. Over 25 mineral inclusions have been found inside diamonds. Interestingly, the most common mineral inside diamonds is, in fact, minute diamond crystals within the "host" diamond.

Diamonds Cut

When the term "cut" is first introduced, most people think of the diamond's shape. However, "cut" refers to the diamond's proportions and finish. Cutting is the contribution made by man transforming the rough diamond crystal into a faceted, polished gem. The cutter's primary goals are to produce the largest size diamond and achieve the greatest optical beauty.

When a diamond is cut to proper proportions and is finished well, light refracts into the diamond, is reflected from one facet to another and then returns through the top of the gem resulting in a display of brilliance (white light), dispersion (rainbow-colored light) and scintillation (sparkling when the diamond moves), and luster (bright reflections from the surface). Proper cutting is the key to a diamond's beauty and value.

Most diamond shapes are cut with 58 facets, or separate flat surfaces, according to mathematical formulas. Using symmetry, the cutter aligns these facets at precise angles in relation to each other to maximize the reflection and refraction of light.

The proportions are calculated in angles & percentages that show how well the diamond refracts and reflects light. They will help you understand the range of well-cut diamonds offered on Diamonds.Com.

When purchasing a diamond, you also may want to consider the grading assigned to the girdle, culet, and polish.

Analyzing Cut
To understand the sub-categories for well-cut diamonds, think of a pyramid with "Ideal" at the top. This narrow range is reserved for the most brilliant, rare and valuable diamonds. The "Excellent" range includes beautiful diamonds that return almost as much light. "Very Good" represents the balance between precise proportions and price considerations.


In many cases, the visual differences may be indiscernible to the naked eye. However, we want to provide you with all the information that you need to select the diamond that is right for you. Refer to the chart below to see the depth and table percentages for each shape, according to "Ideal, Excellent and Very Good" sub-categories. The graph for round diamonds is representative of the graphs for all the other shapes. Keep in mind that the lowest score becomes the overall cut grade. For example, if the table percentage falls within Ideal, but the depth percentage is in the Very Good range, then the diamond is classified as Very Good. The table takes into account the varying proportions for different shapes.



Diamond Illustrations
Each Diamond Part Has A Function:

CROWN: Balance, Brilliance, Dispersion, and Scintillation
GIRDLE: Provide a Setting Edge for the gem
PAVILION: Reflect light back up through the crown
CULET: Prevent Chipping at the tip


DESCRIBING DIAMOND CUTS
Three Word Terms Used In Discussing Cuts:
SHAPE OUTLINE:
Examples: Round, Oval, Marquise, Rectangular, Etc.
FACET ARRANGEMENT:
STANDARD or MODIFtIED
57 Facets are Standard. The 58th facet is the culet, which is often polished flat to prevent chipping. Anything else is modified.
CUTTING STYLE:
BRILLIANT CUT
Radiating Facets (Triangular or Kite Shaped)
STEP
Facets Arranged In Rows Or Tiers (Rectangular, Square and Emerald Cuts)
MIXED CUT
Combination Of Brilliant/Step Styles Employed Together

EXAMPLES:



DEFINITIONS

Crown
The area of the diamond above the girdle.

Girdle
The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond. It is rated in terms of thickness ranging from thin to thick: Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium, Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick. When purchasing a diamond, avoid Extremely Thin or Extremely Thick.


The girdle usually has a frosted appearance. Many diamonds are also finished with a fully polished or even a faceted girdle, depending on the cutter's preference. This will not affect the diamond's value.

Pavilion
The area of the diamond below the girdle.

Table
The largest facet on any diamond, place and polished on the top of the gem.

TOTAL DEPTH

Round Diamonds
The proportion dimension calculated by dividing the depth in millimeters by the average girdle diameter.

Fancy-Shaped Diamonds.
The proportion dimension calculated by dividing the depth in millimeters by the diamond's width.

Culet
The culet is the bottom point of the diamond. In many cases, this point actually has a very small facet. The culet is graded according to the presence or size of this facet: None or Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large and Extremely Large. The more desirable culets are graded from none to small.

Polish
This characteristic refers to the finishing or final polishing of the facets, or flat surfaces. Each facet should be carefully fashioned by the diamond cutter to shine and be free from polishing imperfections that can dull the diamond. The polish of a diamond is generally defined as: Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, generally the rarer color and clarity diamonds are also well polished.

Contrary to common belief, diamonds are ground and polished, not chipped away, until they reach their final form.

Symmetry
This characteristic refers to the alignment and positioning of the facets, or flat surfaces. The alignment should be sharp and precise and in proper proportion to the other facets to allow light to be reflected. Improperly joined facets can made a diamond appear uneven. The symmetry of a diamond is generally defined as: Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent. Again rarer diamonds generally have better symmetry.

FANCY SHAPES AND VALUE
All factors being equal, fancy-shaped diamonds retain more weight from the original rough than round diamonds, therefore the price-per-carat is less. Generally, with some market exceptions, fancy-shaped diamonds are priced less than rounds, and are therefore more affordable. Plus, elongated fancy-shaped diamonds appear much larger than a comparable size round diamond.

Diamond - FANCY COLORS

Rare and very expensive, colored or "fancy" diamonds are becoming ever more popular. These diamonds reflect the colors of the rainbow and dazzle in brilliant combinations of red, pink, blue, yellow, orange, green and brown.

Yellow is the most common colored diamond, while pink, red, blue and green diamonds are extremely rare. Colored diamonds also tend to be smaller than other diamonds and they are cut to maximize color, not clarity.

The appearance of color is created from the combined effect of three elements:
hue - the predominant color
tone - the darkness of the color
saturation - the intensity of the color

Colored diamonds are described based on their predominant hue, such as "pink." If for example, the fancy diamond contains hints of a secondary color such as purple, it will be described as "purplish pink." The use of "ish" indicates the subtle presence of purple. However, a fancy diamond described "brown pink" means that the appearance of both colors is virtually even throughout the stone.

The GIA uses specific grades to identify the ranges of color:
Faint
Very light
Light
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy Intense
Fancy Dark
Fancy Deep
Fancy Vivid

For example, a fancy intense yellow may be listed as FIY or a fancy light pink as a FLP. These grades play a significant role in determining the value of colored diamonds; the stronger the hue the more valuable the diamond.

Various ways of "treating" a diamond, such as heat, can be used to intensify or enhance the color. However, these treated stones are worth far less per carat than their natural counterparts. Diamonds.com adheres to the highest quality standards and does not sell treated diamonds. We only offer natural colored diamonds.

Diamond - SHAPE

Diamonds are cut in many shapes, both modern and traditional. The shape of a diamond refers to its basic form - oval, round or pear-shaped. Shape is often confused with the cut, but cut refers to the diamond's ability to reflect light that creates its fire and brilliance. A round diamond, for example, could be well cut or shallow cut depending on its proportions.

Shape is simply a matter of personal preference. For a ring, you might choose a marquise or oval shape because it makes your finger appear longer. Pear-shaped diamonds look best on smaller fingers. Traditionally, stud earrings are in the classic round or princess shape.

Like fashion, the shape of a diamond can express your individuality. Find your favourite among the most popular and flattering shapes shown here.

Jewelry metals - Sterling Silver

Derived from the Latin for "white and shining," silver entices with its sophisticated sheen. Like gold, it is too soft in its purest form and cannot be used to make jewelry. Copper is the most frequently used alloy because it is very effective in adding durability to silver.

Sterling silver is a mixture of 92.5 percent pure silver and 7.5 percent copper. Silver is not designated with a karat weight; sterling silver is considered 92.5 percent pure.

Silver does tarnish, although frequent wear will minimize tarnishing. Often silver takes on a "patina" or finish that results from the contact of the silver with the person's unique skin chemistry.

Given silver's lower cost, it is a leading metal in fashion jewelry. In some cases, craftsman experiment with new and innovative designs in silver that are later duplicated in the more expensive gold and platinum.

Silver is popular with people who like a more casual look.

Jewelry metals -PLATINUM

Sleek and elegant, platinum's natural white luster beautifully enhances a diamond's radiance. Thirty times rarer than gold and heavier, platinum is also the strongest of precious metals used in jewelry. Prongs set in platinum are more durable than those set in gold.

Platinum is more valuable than gold. Almost 160 tons of platinum are produced annually in comparison to approximately 1,500 tons of gold. In fact, 10 tons of ore must be mined to produce just one ounce of platinum.

Platinum's high melting point made it a difficult metal to use. Even with improved casting techniques, platinum remains expensive.

Yet its popularity continues to grow as consumers recognize its unique ability to bring out a diamond's brilliance.

Unlike gold, platinum is often 90 to 95 percent pure. It is frequently alloyed with gold, nickel, iridium, palladium, rhodium, or ruthenium. Platinum jewelry that meets the established standards is marked 900Pt, 950 Plat or Plat. In the United States, in order to be marked "Platinum" or "Plat," jewelry must contain at least 50 percent platinum.

Always look for the marking to ensure that the material is platinum and not white gold or another metal.

Platinum resists tarnishing. It is also hypoallergenic which makes it perfect for sensitive skin.

Jewelry metals - Gold

Throughout history, gold's mesmerizing beauty has inspired legends. Today, it is the premium choices of artisans worldwide for its ability to be molded into many luxurious designs.

Naturally yellow in color, gold will not tarnish. While it is strong, gold in its purest form is too soft for most jewelry uses and must be mixed-or alloyed-with other metals to increase its strength and durability. The color of gold is affected by the concentration of alloys such as nickel or copper. A high concentration of nickel creates white gold, while rose gold gets it color from a high percentage of copper.

Gold's purity is measured in karats which are used to indicate the percentage of gold. Pure, one hundred percent gold is 24 karat and is more expensive but not as durable as 18 karat (75 percent gold) or 14 karat (58.3 percent gold). When comparing gold jewelry, the higher the number of karats, the greater the value.

Karat weight is a key factor in determining price, along with the design and the degree of craftsmanship required to create a beautiful piece of jewelry.

By law, anything less than 10 karats cannot be sold as gold in the United States . The law also states that the karat mark and manufacturer's trademark must appear on the jewelry. In the United States , 14 karat is the most common gold jewelry sold.

Always look for the karat mark or "k" on the back of the jewelry. The markings are:
18 karat gold - 18k or 750 (the European designation meaning 75% gold)
14 karat gold - 14k or 585
10 karat gold - 10k or 417

Yellow Gold
The most common form of gold used, yellow gold is created with an alloy of silver, copper and zinc mixed with gold. The resulting yellow color reflects the natural color of the gold. Yellow and white gold are similar in strength and durability. It is the karat weight and design, not the color that determines the price.


White Gold
White gold is created by an alloy of nickel and other metals (copper and zinc) mixed with gold. Nickel is the largest component of this alloy, giving the gold a white color.

White gold can also be made with an alloy that contains a higher concentration of silver, making it a good choice for people with a sensitivity to nickel.

White gold is highly reflective and does not tarnish so it is common to add a layer of plating called "rhodium" plating that will protect the reflective quality of the white metal. This does not detract from the value of the metal.

While yellow and white gold are similar in strength and durability, it is karat weight and design, not the color that affects the price.


Rose Gold
Rose gold is alloyed with copper, and sometimes silver. The proportions are about one part of copper to three parts of 24 karat gold. The resulting gold has a reddish-rose hue. Rose gold is often used in the manufacture of three-color jewelry consisting of yellow, white and rose gold together.

Cultured pearls care

Cultured pearls are not the most durable of gems, but if they're properly cared for, they can retain their original beauty for many generations. They won't shatter easily, but at the same time, you can't treat them carelessly and expect them to remain undamaged.

Your cultured pearls should be protected from contact with metal or harder gems, and stored in a cloth pouch or wrapped in a soft cloth.

Since cultured pearls are organic gems, they are part water. Keep them away from excessive heat or intense lighting as this can dry them out and lead to discoloration and cracking. Occasionally cleaning with a dampened clean cloth helps them retain their moisture.

Put on your cultured pearls after using hairspray, cosmetics, and even perfume. Excessive exposure to such chemicals can cause damage to them.

Never use an ultrasonic cleaner, steamer, or ammonia to clean your cultured pearls. Use warm, mild soapy water. Rinse and lay your cultured pearls flat on a towel to dry.

If you were your cultured pearls on a regular basis, it's a good idea to restring them about once a year.

Care of diamonds

Diamonds may be the hardest substance known, but your precious purchase still needs the proper care and cleaning.


STORAGE



Diamond jewelry is best stored separately to avoid becoming scratched or damaged. Store your diamonds in individual jewelry cases, cloth pouches or in a fabric-lined jewelry box with separate dividers and compartments.


CLEANING



Lotions, soaps, powders, perfumes and hair spray can diminish a diamond's sparkle. To clean your jewelry at home, be careful not to use abrasives (including toothpaste!) that can dull the setting.

For at-home cleaning, we recommend:
mix one part ammonia (or Mr. Clean) with four parts warm water
add a small amount of mild dishwashing liquid
soak for approximately 10 minutes
scrub gently with a new soft toothbrush (used for jewelry cleaning only)
dip the jewelry repeatedly in the solution
rinse with warm to hot tap water
pat dry with a lint-free cloth

We suggest having your diamond jewelry professionally cleaned at least once a year.


EXTENDED CARE



To avoid chipping or breakage, avoid wearing jewelry while taking part in sports or during strenuous activities. Remove jewelry before going into a swimming pool or hot tub.

The cumulative effect of repeated exposure to even small amounts of harsh chemicals such as chlorine and bleach could cause gold to become brittle, causing breaks and loosening of prongs.


INSPECTIONS



We recommend having your jeweler check the setting for loose stones, bent prongs or signs of wear. This can be done at the same time as the professional cleaning.

What is an appraisal?

What is an appraisal?



An appraisal is an evaluation conducted by an independent firm to
determine that the diamonds and precious metals are genuine and that the
diamond matches the criteria listed in the Diamond Grading Report. The
appraisal report consists of a description of the article and shows its
estimated retail replacement value.


Although you will receive a Diamond Grading Report with every loose diamond purchased from Diamonds.com, we also recommend that you request an appraisal after you make your purchase.


Refer to the FAQs below to learn more about Appraisals.








Why do I need an appraisal?

An appraisal is required to obtain insurance to cover the replacement
cost of the item in the event of loss, theft or damage. The insurance companies
use the appraisal to calculate your cost of insuring the items.


An appraisal will also put your mind at ease that the diamond you received is in
fact the one that you bought. You never have to worry when making a purchase
from Diamonds.com. We maintain the highest ethical standards and guarantee that
that the diamond you purchased is the one you selected.


 


Do I still need an appraisal if I have a Diamond Grading Report?

Yes. A Diamond Grading Report can be requested before making a
purchase. It will certify the 4Cs-cut, color, clarity and carat-weight-and
other characteristics of the diamond. However, it does not list an estimated
retail replacement value. The appraisal is ordered after you make a purchase or
at the time of purchase from Diamonds.com. It confirms the 4Cs, but also includes
the estimated retail replacement value.


 



Does an appraisal expire?

An appraisal is usually good for three to five years. Your insurance
company will advise you if you require an updated appraisal.


 


How much does an appraisal cost?

Costs vary according to total carat weight of the diamonds.
Approximate fees are:



      Under 1.50 carats
$ 60.00


      1.51 - 2.50 carats
$ 75.00


      2.51 - 3.50 carats
$ 90.00


      3.51 - 4.50 carats
$100.00


      Over 4.51 carats
For a quote, please call 1-877-956-9600


Please contact us if you need an updated appraisal which we can expedite at a
reduced fee.